Where I like to eat in Istanbul
The internet is bursting with ‘best of’ lists about where to eat in Istanbul, where to have a drink, the 10 best cafes and so on. As a professional freelance writer I know a lot of them are PR generated, meaning new restaurants open up and pay a public relations company to get them noticed. Adjectives like the word best are highly subjective and in reality everyone’s tastebuds, preferences and budgets are different so I’m not going to say my suggestions are the best.
Instead I want to share where I really go for a meal, breakfast with friends, an ordinary lunch, a special night out, or just for a coffee and a snack, on both sides of the Bosphorus. But first a brief overview of eating out in Turkey.
Like everywhere, Turkey has restaurants and café. However they also have lokanta. These are establishments that prepare a selection of different dishes every day and display them in a bain marie. You can choose which ones you want, with or without rice, and the price depends on what you pick. They range from small family run affairs and esnaf lokantasi, tradesmen’s restaurants which both usually only offer a small selection through to nationwide chains such as Pehlivan.
Traditionally, many restaurants (not lokanta though) will offer ikram, meaning you are given free salads, mezes and bread, but in these times of straightened financial circumstances that’s not necessarily the case. If the waiter brings items to your table that you didn’t order, don’t be embarrassed to ask, “Ikram mı?”, Is this ikram? and if the answer is evet, yes, then enjoy!
Lastly, a few years ago a number of Istanbul fine dining restaurants were chosen for the first ever Michelin Guide to the city. That’s now expanded to over cities in Turkey too, so if you’re looking to treat yourself, have a look at their recommendations .
Where to Eat in Istanbul – Breakfast
Turkish kahvaltı , a breakfast that’s more like an extended brunch, is famous for good reason. A typical spread includes anything from a minimum of three varieties of olives, five types of cheese, eggs cooked with sucuk, a spicy sausage, to dozens of different breads and pastries such simit, sourdough rings sprinkled with sesame seeds, poğaça, moist crumbly pastries that taste like a cross between a cake and a soft biscuit, filled with dill, cheese or olives and börek, layers of thin flaky dough cooked in the oven.
Börek comes plain, filled with white cheese, minced beef or spinach. Then there’s sweet treats like kaymak, similar to clotted cream, homemade jams and petek bal, honey on the comb. All this and more, accompanied by glasses of pomegranate-coloured Turkish tea.
When I want to splash out I go to Divan Brasserie Kalamış Marina on the Asian side of the city. As well as their special Divan Breakfast featuring the above, they do an Omega breakfast plate too, serving up smoked salmon, avocado, eggs, Ricotta, walnuts and of course, unlimited tea.
Having breakfast with family and friends is a popular way to catch up with one another in Istanbul, especially on weekends, so bookings for Divan are essential.
Over the last decade or so the Yeldeğirmeni neighbourhood has been developing a reputation as a hipper more artistic alternative to Kadıköy. Müjgan Yeldeğirmeni goes beyond standard Turkish breakfast fare, offering vegan options as well tantalising sides, including real pork sausages. If you arrive late you have to queue, but it’s worth it.
Or head to the leafy Bosphorus neighbourhood of Kuzguncuk and take your pick of the many street side cafes.
Where to Eat in Istanbul – Lunch
Having lunch by the water always reminds me of being on holiday. Istanbul takes in the Sea of Marmara, the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus so there are plenty of options. When I’m out that way I go to the Beykoz Belediyesi Gümüşsuyu Restaurant and Cafe. It’s one of a number of Sosyal Tesisler, social facilities, run by councils throughout Istanbul that offer good food at reasonable prices. They’re often situated in historical buildings, lush city parks or contemporary settings. All serve traditional Turkish dishes such as köfte and meze, hamburgers, salads and pasta, and each has their own speciality.
Gümüşsuyu features fish and seafood. Once I’ve decided whether to have the grilled sea bass, bream or salmon (they’re all equally good), I sit back and enjoy the view. The Beykoz restaurant is modern in design with floor-to-ceiling glass on three sides, and an ample outdoor deck right over the water. Waiters apparelled in black and white weave between tables, under dangling lights and hanging greenery, in what feels like an understated take on millionaire chic.
Back in Yeldeğirmeni, Palegg serves up delicate yet filling plates of smørrebrød, slices of buttered dense rye bread. They’re topped with quality ingredients like slow cooked veal or crispy crumbed chicken, plus vegetarian options and a changing menu of mains. The chef behind the concept, Mehmet Semet, worked in Norway’s first Michelin starred restaurant.
Recently, my neighbourhood Göztepe, 20 minues inland from Kadıköy by bus, has become somewhat popular with Chinese and Taiwanese tourists. Apparently my middle class, middle average nothing much happens mahalle has been featured on Xiaohongshu, the Chinese version of Instagram. The very fact it’s so normal and ordinary is what they love. I’ve come across them in the supermarkets and the spice shop, gazing at packages covered in Turkish words as though they’ve discovered the Holy Grail.
Which is kind of how I feel about Ada Pide, our local pide parlour. I’ve been ordering their Ada Spesyal (think spicy jalepenos and more) and Ada Gürme (everything meat and yummy) for over 15 years now. No one else achieves such a perfectly thin crispy base, they never stint on the ingredients and vegetarians are well catered for. Now they’ve opened up a proper sit down restaurant, so if you ever find yourself in my neck of the woods, give them a try. They’re open for lunch and dinner, seven days a week, except at the beginning of Kurban Bayram.
If you follow me on Instagram you’ll know I spend a lot of time in Üsküdar. I generally avoid the more popular tourist restaurants because I have my two firm favourites, Özbölu Lokantası when I want a full meal and Şeker Döner for something lighter.
Özbölu do a range of dishes that change daily, and their beef and lamb is top notch. I’m a big fan of their taze fasulye, cooked green beans while my husband Kim loves the spinach with thick yoghurt. Despite our vow every time we go there to not indulge in dessert, we do. The poached quince is lovely but my favourite is the light fig pudding.
The team behind Şeker Döner hails from Hatay and in my opinion serve up the most succulent chicken döner wrapped in cushiony crisp lavaş I’ve eaten in Istanbul. If you like hot and spicy food be warned there’s no point asking for just a bit of sauce when you order Ottoman special. It’s searingly hot and having tried it once, lovely thought it is, these days I stick with the ordinary serving. They also do great fun reels on their social media that reflect quirks of Turkish culture.
Another place to eat is at Nevmekan Sahil. It’s housed in another brilliant council run establishment in a former marriage registry building that’s worth visiting just for the architecture. You’ll find all the details on page 100 of Istanbul 50 Unsung Places .
When I’m over Fatih way, büryan kebab slow-cooked over many hours until the meat slides off the bone like silk is on the menu. Büryan kebab is a feature of the restaurants lining Itfaiye Caddesi in Zeyrek, along with shops selling dried fruit, nuts, sweets and butchers specialising in offal. I head for Siirt Şeref Büryan Kebap Salon, one street parallel.
Where to Eat in Istanbul – Dinner
Ocak Istanbul in Sirkeci is my standout pick when it comes to having the full Turkish dining experience. In a setting where attention to detail extends from the wine list right through to the choice of music, Chef Ömer Bozyap serves up traditional dishes with contemporary flair. His aim is for every diner to feel as special as if they’d been invited into his own home. It’s no wonder Ocak Istanbul is in the Istanbul Michelin guide.
He’s created two tasting menus, one with five courses and the other with seven. Savour an Amuse Bouche with lamb’s testicles with apple slices that has to be tasted to be believed (and that’s saying something given I’m not usually an offal person), Armenian specialities like tombik, the chef’s treat that changes according to the availability plus the season, and more. Vegetarians are well catered for. As well as being extremely talented Ömer is also a very nice guy and someone I’m pleased to call a friend, so say hello from me when you meet him.
If I told you there was a wonderful restaurant located in a former prison you probably wouldn’t believe me, would you? However that’s exactly where you’ll find Avlu , in the courtyard of what is now a luxury five star Four Seasons Hotel in Sultanahmet. The food is Michelin quality and the service impeccable, as I discovered during my recent stay with them. You can read all about Avlu and the hotel here link to Four Seasons Sultanahmet post.
Another establishment you’ll want to dress up for is Lokanta 1741, inside Cağaloğlu Hamamı built by Sultan Mahmut 1 in 1741. During Ottoman reign the revenue raised by the hamam was spent on the upkeep of the library the sultan founded in the Hagia Sophia. Today the elegant courtyard and adjacent rooms of the hamam make an atmospheric setting to enjoy Turkish cuisine and sample local wines. The restaurant attracts well-heeled Turks who partake from their lavish selection of traditional hot and cold mezze and more, in a 300-year-old setting.
Neolokal in Karaköy takes in stunning views across the water, equally matched by the landscapes they create with food like their humus that resembles like arid Anatolian interior shimmering at dusk. The Neolokal team respect the essence of traditional Turkish food while reinventing it in new ways to guarantee its relevance in the future. Vegetarians, vegans catered for along with gluten and lactose intolerant diners.
Tersane, also in Karaköy with equally gorgeous views specialises in high class mezes from all across the Anatolian plains.
I haven’t forgotten the Asian side of Istanbul. I have a number of restaurants I like to go to when I want to celebrate a special occasion with friends such as Atlas Mühüdar 78, in a renovated 1930s Art Deco building on a street of the same name in Kadıköy. They have a small but well thought our menu that re-presents Middle Eastern classics in new ways, introducing different taste combinations such as black lentil salad with asparagus and carrot or lamb skewers with pomegranate seeds. They do a good range of cocktails, many based on my preferred spirit, gin as well as wine, beer and other alcohol tasting events throughout the year.
The man behind Viktor Levi restaurant, was a sardine fisherman until he discovered the grape growing island of Bozcaada in the early 20th century. Piqued by the possibilities, Viktor realised there was more money to made in wine than fish and opened a wine house in Galata in 1914. The original Viktor Levi closed for business in 2011, but Asian side Viktor Levi, established in 2004, is still going strong.
Diners have a choice of stylish and cosy booths inside and a lush garden area outside, year round. Photographs of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the modern Turkish Republic, communist poet Nâzım Hikmet and other important Turkish figures cover the walls.
Where to have drinks in Istanbul
These days I’m more of a have a drink with dinner kind of person, but if you’re in Sultanahmet in summer, head for the terrace at Four Seasons Hotel in Sultanahmet. Not only are their cocktails on another level, the view is sublime. Year round, the Topside Bar in The Peninsula Hotel Istanbul in Galata serves up chic decor and divine cocktails. I can easily imagine Poirot dropping in here.
Otherwise check out these suggestions from Andrea Lemieux, Turkey’s preeminent Turkish wine specialist and author of The Essential Guide to Turkish Wine.
Coffee, cakes and more
A lot of food businesses come and go in İstanbul but I love the classics. Haci Bekir, famous for their lokum, that’s Turkish Delight is my go to for gifts for friends or a treat for myself. Sample the rose flavoured lokum, and if you love marzipan, try their badem ezmesi, made from ground almond meal. I frequent their Kadıköy branch, but they also have branches in Eminonu and two on Istiklal Caddesi. Make sure you check out the room in the basement, where sushi train meets baklava. It’s fantastic!
Over in Üsküdar, if you just want to sit back, recharge and watch the ferries go by, take tea, Turkish of course, in Kadim Kahve. Styled like a traditional hamam on the spot where a real Turkish bath used to stand during the reign of Sultan Mehmet II, best known as Mehmet the Conqueror. Once you’ve admired the whimsically painted domed ceilings try to get a table by the window or head for the terrace. Both provide views over the Bosphorus.
The Ministry of Coffee in Nişantaşı on the European side of Istanbul is another standout, not jut because it was started by a Turkish Australian. They combine the barista culture of Sydney with the slick lines of post-modern architectural organic design, serving up beans from micro-farms in thirteen different locations, including Ethiopia, El Salvador and Yemen, roasted and blended according to their own mix.
Enjoy one of their traditional Australian Anzac cookies, made of flour, oats and Golden Syrup while you observe the blonde Turkish nouveau riche in their natural habitat.
İnci Pastenesi on Bahariye Caddesi, the Asian side’s answer to Istiklal, has been serving up a to die for array of sweet and savoury biscuits, pastries since 1958. Take away only.
I also favour Kahve Dunyasi with branches all across Istanbul because they’re Turkish owned, use Arabica coffee beans which I love, and you get a chocolate spoon with your coffee.
A few words of advice …
All my recommendations in this post are either fine dining establishments or local places I’ve frequented for a number of years, if not decades in some cases so I know they’re straight up when it comes to the bill (that’s the check for Americans). The following is useful to remember when you’re in tourist areas in Turkey, like Istanbul, Antalya and so on.
Never order from a menu without prices. It might sound obvious, but every summer people complain about being charged exorbitant amounts and really, they have no one to blame but themselves. The cost of living is soaring in Turkey and unscrupulous business owners do try to make up for it by cheating tourists. I’ve read of people photographing menus so they can cross check the prices when they get the bill, just in case. I’m not sure if that’s necessary so will leave it up to you.
And finally some thoughts on tipping. It isn’t mandatory to tip in Turkey, but it will almost always be well received. There is no set amount or percentage. Do note that if a restaurant charges a 10% service fee it mostly goes to the owner rather than the staff. Also, if it’s not mentioned on menu or on a sign visible in restaurant, then it’s illegal for the restaurant to charge it. That’s all from me other than to say afiyet olsun!
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Now that you know where to eat, here are some other tips to help plan your trip.
For FLIGHTS I like to use Kiwi.com.
Don’t pay extra for an E-VISA. Here’s my post on everything to know before you take off.
However eSIM are the way to stay connected while you’re away. I recommend Truely, an eSIM provider working with local telcos. You can buy it before or after you arrive in Turkey, to use for 1 to as many days as you need. Truly eSIM are straightforward to install and activate but if you have any problems their responsive Whatsapp customer service is available 24/7.
Use my code: insideoutinistanbul and get 5% off when you order through the Truely website.
Even if I never claim on it, I always take out TRAVEL INSURANCE. I recommend Visitors Coverage.
If you’re travelling alone, check out this post on useful solo travel tips Turkey for women (and men).
I’m a big advocate of public transport, but know it’s not suitable for everyone all the time. When I need to be picked up from or get to Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport, I use one of these GetYourGuide AIRPORT TRANSFERS.
ACCOMMODATION: When I want to find a place to stay I use Booking.com.
Now that’s all the practical stuff out of the way, here’s the fun stuff.
CITY TOURS & DAY TRIPS: Let me guide you around Kadikoy with my audio walking tour Stepping back through Chalcedon or venture further afield with Istanbul 50 Unsung Places, my bespoke guidebook. I know you’ll love visiting the lesser-known sites I’ve included. It’s based on using public transport as much as possible so you won’t be adding too much to your carbon footprint. Then read about what you’ve seen and experienced in my three essay collections and memoir about moving to Istanbul permanently.
Browse the GetYourGuide website or Viator to find even more ways to experience Istanbul and Turkey with food tours, visits to the old city, evening Bosphorus cruises and more!
However you travel, stay safe and have fun! Iyi yolculuklar.
