Chora Mosque – A Church in the Fields

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Once upon a time the Chora Mosque was the Byzantine Church of St Saviour in Chora, meaning ‘church in the country’. This reference is to an ancient monastery no longer in existence, built outside the walls of Constanintople. The current manifestation of Chora Mosque, or Kariyer Camii to use its Turkish name, dates back to the late 11^th century. It was erected on the orders of Maria Doukaina, the mother-in-law of Emperor Alexius I Commenus, and underwent extensive repairs and remodelling in the early 20^th century.

Key elements of Chora Mosque

However Chora Mosque is famous due to the magnificent Biblical ornamentations in the galleries and passages formed by deep barrel vaults, domes and double narthex. The marble revetments (masonry facings), frescoes and mosaics all date to the period from 1315 to 1321.

These embellishments were completed under the patronage of the Theodre Metochites. The son of a local archdeacon, Metochites dedicated his life to religious and secular studies, as well as politics. When he was invested as the Grand Logethete (a position in the Byzantine Empire similar to a Minister or Secretary of State) in 1321, he became one of the richest men of his time.

He used his considerable influence and purse on restoring and decorating the church of the monastery, now modern day Chora Mosque. His portrait can be seen on the ceiling of the narthex, the rectangular room which provides access to the nave. Unlike most paintings in the formal and stylised Byzantine tradition, the works in Chora Mosque are vibrant, fluid and alive.

The entry price it the TL equivalent of €20 (as of July 2025) and is open to visitors 9.00-18.00, except on Fridays when it is only accessible by worshippers.

If you’re a serious art lover or just fascinated by the city, I recommend you buy a copy of Hilary Sumner-Boyd and John Freely’s book, Strolling through Istanbul: The Classic Guide to the City. It gives a detailed step-by-step description of the Chora Mosque mosaics, as well as numerous other famous and less well known architectural structures in the city.

Want to come to Istanbul and see Chora for yourself? Here are my handy hints.

Before you even buy your plane ticket, check whether you need an EVISA to enter Turkey. Here’s my post on everything to know before you take off, including how to buy one from the government website so you don’t pay extra. Once you land, you’ll need to head to your hotel. I’m a big advocate of public transport, but know it’s not suitable for everyone all the time. When I need to be picked up from or get to Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport, I use MELON TAXI AIRPORT TRANSFERS.

Naturally you’ll want to stay connected and eSIM are the way to go, wherever you travel. I recommend Truely, an eSIM provider working with local telcos. You can buy it before or after you arrive in Turkey, a convenience other esim providers no longer offer and can opt for 1 to as many days as you need, instead of being limited to 7, 15 or 30 days. Plus you can reload as you need. Truely eSIM are straightforward to install and activate but if you have any problems their responsive Whatsapp customer service is available 24/7.

Use my code: insideoutinistanbul and get 5% off when you order through the Truely website.

Even if I never claim on it, I always take out TRAVEL INSURANCE. I recommend Visitors Coverage. If you’re travelling alone, check out this post on useful solo travel tips Turkey for women (and men).

Now that all the serious stuff is out of the way, it’s time to have fun on CITY TOURS & DAY TRIPS. Let me guide you around Kadikoy with my audio walking tour Stepping back through Chalcedon or venture further afield with my guidebook Istanbul 50 Unsung Places. I know you’ll love visiting the lesser-known sites I’ve included. It’s based on using public transport as much as possible so you won’t be adding too much to your carbon footprint.

Browse the GetYourGuide website or Viator to find dozens of ways to experience Istanbul and Turkey with food tours, visits to the old city and evening Bosphorus cruises. If you prefer a more personal touch, I also offer bespoke author walks.

Then, back home, read about what you’ve seen and experienced in my three essay collections and memoir about moving to Istanbul permanently.

However you travel, stay safe and have fun! Iyi yolculuklar.