Karakoy, once home to itinerant sailors, has been attracting a lot of attention in recent years. The section east of Galata Bridge already boasts an eclectic collection of cafes, bars and galleries. However I prefer the everyday working area to the west of the bridge. In the wonderful rabbit warren of backstreets bounded by the…
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My family wasn’t religious, so when I was a little girl in primary school I was always slightly jealous of the other children at Easter. I’d see them emerge from scripture classes clutching Easter bonnets festooned with strips of paper, straw baskets filled with fluffy yellow cotton wool chickens and colourful pictures of the saints….
Behind the mundane route of the Istanbul Metrobus system lies another world. Find out more in this extract from my story “Metrobus Dreams”. “At Uzunçayır, I envisage the long fields to which the name refers. Fully grown sheep and brilliantly white newborn lambs dot meadows covered with long blades of grass swaying gently in the…
In a recent interview with world famous Turkish photographer Ara Guler in Today’s Zaman (Nov 14, 2014) he said, “The Istanbul that I lived in wasn’t Istanbul. Actually, I didn’t see Istanbul either. Istanbul was already over. And Pera is over, too. When the Russian invasion happened in 1917, the White Russians came here, that…
How I came across Mehmed Sokullu Camii When I started writing about Turkey, it was with the idea of sharing my thoughts and experiences. When I moved to Istanbul, I hoped to give people an idea of what everyday life is like for an expat here. Many of my posts have made people laugh, and…
Where to begin? My Turkish is largely self-taught, acquired on a need-to-know basis. As a result my experience of learning Turkish has been a largely hit and miss affair. I learnt by talking to doctors, real estate agents and assorted government personnel. These situation were fraught with tension and nerves as I had to get…
Those of you who live in Turkey will know that brunch is almost an institution. Lazy Sunday mornings that stretch into endless afternoons where you eat too much, gossip a lot, and just enjoy yourself. Then “…after everyone has eaten enough and drunk their last glass of tea, it’s time for coffee. Coffee is drunk according…
Interviews & Media Find out more about my life in Turkey and my approach to writing here. 2026 2025 2024 2023 2022 2021 2020 2019 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014
Normally I’m too busy trying to make sense of the things I see, do and experience in Turkey, to write about places. However, after a wonderful holiday in Selimiye, in the Marmaris region of Turkey, I couldn’t resist putting pen, and photos, to paper. Well beyond the pink and white assault of English and Russian…