Heybeliada – what to see and do
Heybeliada history
Of the nine Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara off Istanbul, Heybeliada is the second biggest after Büyükada. The Turkish name translates as Saddlebag Island, as hills at either end of the land mass make it resemble one. However locals call it Halky (pronounced halki) which is also the Greek name for the island. According to ancient Greek philosopher Aristotle, copper was found on Halky during the Byzantine period and the word halki is derived from the Greek word for copper. The first person to operate a copper mine at Çamlimanı, Demonisos, also lent his name to the island.
When the plague hit Istanbul in the 16th century, wealthy Christians sought refuge amongst the pines but a few centuries later Heybeliada was beset with fires and earthquakes. Nonetheless it continued to be inhabited and copper was mined here until it proved unprofitable and the mine closed down in the 19th century. Around the same time Heybeliada became famous for its seminary where Greek Orthodox priests once trained.
Heybeliada became a major health retreat when a tuberculosis sanatorium opened on Yeşil Burnu, Green Point, in 1924. Many famous patients stayed there, but it was İsmet İnönü, Turkey’s first prime minister and second president of the new Republic of Turkey who had a lasting impact on the island. Initially he stayed at the sanatorium and was so enamoured of the island that he rented a summer house for his family which he eventually bought. The sanatorium closed in 2006.
Today 62% of Heybeliada is covered with pine trees. The fact it has remained so pristine and green is most likely due to the fact much of island is owned by the military and fenced off. Whatever the case, it makes for a lovely escape from the built up streets of Istanbul. Along with Kinaliada, Heybeliada is less crowded than Buyukada too.
What to see on Heybeliada
There are four separate hills on Heybeliada and quite a lot to see so unless you’re a super fast walker, you’re unlikely to reach everywhere on foot in one go. Either split your sightseeing over several visits or hire a bicycle. If you plan to go swimming, just pick one or two highlights and save the rest for another time.
I’ve grouped the sites as those in Heybeliada centre, some up on Ümit Tepe north of the wharves and finally, others along a circuit of the island starting south of the wharves and circling the island back into town.
Heybeliada centre
Deniz Harp Okulu Heybeliada Yerleşkesi Komutanlığı (Marine High School & Naval High Command base)
Gemici Kaynağı Sokak No 14
Deniz Harp Okulu, the Marine High School founded on Heybeliada in 1773, was an important naval training centre. Officially it was called Mühendishane-i Bahr-ı Humayun, the School of Naval Engineering) then renamed Mekteb-i Bahriye-i Şahane after being renovated during the Tanzimat Period of 1839 to 1875. It now functions as the Naval High Command base.
The Church of Panagia Kamariotissa, part of the Panayia Monastery, is located inside the grounds. It’s a tetraconch building, from the Greek for four shells, in reference to its design consisting of four apses of equal size pointing in four directions, like a cross. This church is believed to date from the 11th or 12th century. Unfortunately the base is closed to the public so it’s not possible to see the church in person.
Aya Nikola Rum Ortodoks Kilesi (St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church)
Imralı Sokak No 11
This church was built in 1857, on the ruins of a Byzantine church dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors. A separate building in front of the church functions as the narthex, with an ayasma inside. This holy spring is dedicated to St. Paraskevi. The church was designed by architect Hadji Stefani Gaytanki Kalfa with a cruciform layout, dome, four buttresses, barrel-vaulted arches above each arm and a bell tower independent of the main structure. The bell was brought over from Russia.
The church was severely damaged in 1894, but soon repaired. The remains of Bishop Samuel I who died in 1775, are interred under altar. These days the church is used by Armenians and Assyrians, mainly in summer and if you’re lucky, the caretaker might let you in around 16.30.
Bet Yaakov Sinagogu (Bet Yaakov Synagog)
Orhan Sokak No 8
This small block like structure was erected to meet the demands of Jewish families holidaying in Heybeliada. The land was purchased in 1947 but the synagogue didn’t open until Sunday, June 10, 1956, with a grand ceremony for the 250 congregants. Bet Yakov is registered with the Neve Şalom Foundation that looks after the Jewish communities in Galata, Beyoğlu, Kasımpaşa and Şişli, over on mainland Istanbul.
Refah Şehitleri Cad No 67 Open 10-17 Tues- Sun, closed Mondays
Ismet İnönü was born on the 24th of September 1884 in Izmir, and died on Christmas Day in 1973. As mentioned above he first came to the island as a patient, then bought a fully furnished house for 9,500 liras in 1934. Throughout the years well-known CHP politicians would visit İnönü to work on party protocols then stay for dinner with the family.
After his died the family more or less abandoned the property and it fell into disrepair. The İnönü Foundation took it over and opened it as a museum, displaying İnönü’s personal items and those belonging to the family.
Open Tuesday to Sunday: 10-17.00 (closed for lunch 12.30-13.30)
Entry price as of June 2025: Tourists – 240tl, Turkish citizens – 120tl, Students – 60tl
The houses Refah Şehitleri Caddesi are quite lovely. Look out for the explosion of pink icing that was once the Merit Halki Palace Hotel. Owned by a Rum, Turkish born Greeks, until a few years ago it was a luxury hotel. Don’t forget to veer into Lozan Zaferi Caddesi to admire Heybeli Sahaf, a second hand bookshop in awonderful old wooden building
Ümit Tepe
Heybeliada Greek Orthodox Seminary
Heybeliada Greek Orthodox Seminary is located at top of Ümit Tepe, also known as Papaz Dağı, translating as Priest Mountain. Also known as Ayatriada Monastery or Halki Seminary, it was established in 1844 to train Christian Orthodox clergy.
The seminary was once one of the most important theological institutions in the Orthodox world, producing nearly 1,000 graduates, including 12 patriarchs, with Patriarch Bartholomew I among them. There’s a statue of him in the garden.
The seminary hasn’t been in operation since 1971 but there is talk of it reopening. You can still enter the building where you’ll find a library with over 120,000 books still in operation, empty classrooms and a cathedra, the chair or throne of a bishop. In the monastery grounds there’s a biblical garden with 82 plants mentioned in the Bible, as well as chickens and cows. Peacocks roam free and if you’re lucky you’ll get to see them shake their tail feathers.
Değirmen Burnu Tabiat Park
The monastery is at the peak of the Değirmen Burnu Tabiat Park, the Değirmen Point Nature Park. The park consists of a picnic area costs 60tl per person (as of June 2025) to enter (30tl for students). You can bring your own food and drink, rent a mangal to enjoy a barbeque or eat at the restaurant. If you want to swim the cost is 600tl per person on weekdays and 650tl on weekends. Unlike the picnic area, you can’t bring your own food and drink. The Değirmen Burnu Tabiat Park beach is a family beach so single men are not allowed to enter.
Heybeliada south west circuit (approximately 7km in total)
Head south west from the wharves, past the Maritime College and head up the hill to follow the coast around the island. On the way you’ll pass İnönü Park and then the lush grounds of the Kızılay Gençlik Kamp, the Turkish Red Crescent Youth Camp. I was passing with a friend and when we wished the group of people sitting at a bench having poğaça and soda, they offered us some. It’s the first I knew Kızılay make a pineapple and mango flavoured soda and it was yum! We got talking as you can see and took some fun shots.
The reason we were walking parallel to the water was because I wanted to have a look at the sanatorium. However our road, Çam Limanı Yolu, offered up other suprises, such as the Aya Yorgi Manastırı, aka Hagios Georgios. It’s believed the monastery was built between 1583-84, and provided shelter for Greeks coming over from Istanbul to escape the plague epidemic. The Patriarch of Jerusalem, Nicodemus I, was buried here in 1910.
The fence along this point it rather high but you can still see the monastery buildings and small church however the Holy Spring of Ayios Eufemia, carved into the steep cliff at the bottom of the cliff below it, isn’t visible.
Much of the land here is owned by the military and like army property elsewhere, it’s forbidden to take photographs. Which is a shame as it means I can’t show you the large domed tomb with an angel statue on it that you pass further along. It’s known as the Ornamented Tomb and was erected in memory of the wife of Kangelidis, the British Consul of Gemlik.
Heybeliada Sanatoryumu Göğüs Hastalıkları Hastanesi
Built on the slopes of Yeşilburun, a pine covered area near Çam Limanı, the Heybeliada Sanatorium was Turkey’s first tuberculosis hospital. It was housed in an already existing building used to administer immigrants, and opened on 1 November 1924 after extensive repairs. Famous Turks such as İsmet İnönü and Rıfat Ilgaz stayed in the hospital, which expanded with the construction of more departments.
However the hospital was more than a sanatorium. A rehabilitation centre and a nursing school opened here in 1954, and master craftsmen offered courses in shoemaking, sock-making, photography and other subjects, which meant patients left with a trade and were able to gain employment.
A study from 1974 found that approximately half of the 1,000 patients surveyed secured a profession. There were also weekly morale days, which included film screenings or concerts. It became a centre fully equipped to provide chest diseases and thoracic surgery training and a research hospital with surgical, ENT and dental services, bacteriology-biochemistry, x-ray, pathology-cytology, and respiratory function laboratories.
The hospital was so successful it closed down in 2005, due to a lack of patients and transportation to the island. The Turkish movie Kelebeğin Rüyası, The Butterfly’s Dream was shot here in 2013 and from what I could see, the former hospital would make a great hotel although damage caused by a fire in 2009 would have to be addressed.
Heybeliada Rum Ortodoks Mezarlığı
The island’s Greek Orthodox cemetery is close to the now abandoned hospital. However I didn’t visit because it would have added to the walk. Also most non-Muslim cemeteries I’ve visited in Istanbul are locked and set behind high walls so I didn’t want to get there and find there was no one to let me in.
Once you pass the IETT Hastane bus stop, a marvellous stretch of shaded road winds around past a grassy knoll that almost makes you feel like you’re walking through the English countryside. This opens out into Çam Limanı Bay and Ada Club Beach (more on this below), then continues up another rise to Terk-i Dünya Manastiri, out on the point overlooking the Cliff of Mazur, a documented mooring site.
The small monastery located here today was originally a house built by a monk in 1859 as a retreat. Currently only the chapel is open for worship and there’s a tea garden of sorts in front of it with marvellous views. The caretaker was quite gruff so we didn’t order tea but I did admire his small bostan, a market garden, with healthy tomato, eggplant and other vegetables growing in it.
Alman Plaji
Further around the same circuit you come to signs pointing down to Alman Plajı, German Beach. It’s said to be a good place to swim, being clean and undeveloped, but we weren’t dressed for swimming. The path down to the water looked a bit rough and ready so bear that in mind if you decide to check it out. Closed shoes essential! I was very curious where the name came from and it turns out that in 1915, German officers began to come to the island, possibly on R&R. The same year, British submarines were seen in the Sea of Marmara Sea and the Greek Trade School in the Panayia Monastery closed and it became an orphanage for Greek girls.
This stretch of road is part of a bird sanctuary, and there are photos on display of the various types that inhabit it, such as grey herons and cormorants.
Rus Esirler Anıtı
The final stop on this Heybliada circuit walk and in my opinion the most unusual, is at the Monument to Russian Prisoners. Set up a short sharp hill opposite a military base, this romantic marble statue of an angel carrying symbol of the tsars in its hand is dedicated to around 300 Russian soldiers who died in the Ottoman-Russian War of 1828-29. When Russian soldiers entering Edirne, in Thrace on August 18, 1829, 24 officers and around 1000 soldiers were arrested. For reasons I couldn’t discover, they were held captive in Panayia Monastery.
The statue is locked behind iron bars but the base has inscriptions in Greek and Russian on different sides. The Greek reads, “1828-1829. One thousand three hundred dear Russian soldiers were captured by the Turks and buried in this land. The Great Emperor erected this monument in memory of the great service and heroism of his soldiers. The angry declaration of war Aris (Mars) destroyed their young bodies. Those who sacrificed themselves for freedom and goodness reached the highest stage. Tunca, Arda (Barnate), Dristia and Edirne express their heroism”.
On the other side in Russian. “Here lie the Russian soldiers who died as prisoners in 1828-1829. There is nothing greater than a man giving his life for his friends. Gospel John 15-13”.
In the spring of 2014 Ukrainians painted the statue in the colours of their flag but it has since been cleaned to the original patina.
Once you’ve had your fill, walk back to the main road, Refah Şehitleri Caddesi and after a short distance you’ll come to rows of wonderful old wooden houses in various states of repair. You can follow the road all the way back into town or cut onto the waterfront.
Heybeliada Beaches
If you’ve been reading my posts for a while now you’ll know I have a bit of an issue with the title ‘beach’ being given to most of the places you can swim in Istanbul. I’m Australian after all and we have 40,000 of them, and no, you don’t pay to use them. Nonetheless, here are a few Heybeliada recommendations.
Although I said I was going to include the club in this post, the friendly guys at the gate wouldn’t let us in to have a look around. From what I could see the grounds are very nice with manicured lawns, shady trees and well laid out facilities.
The 2025 summer season prices are 600tl per person weekdays and 750tl per person on weekends. The price includes a lounger, umbrella, loos, showers and boat transfer from the main wharf and back at end of day. There’s a café selling toast, snacks and freshly baked pide, lahmacun and so on.
If you’re into organised beach days this looks perfect but my main bug bear is the constant soundtrack of loud music.
Opening hours are 8am to 7pm and the season runs from sometime in June to sometime in September.
There’s another ‘beach’ next door. They only charge 500tl per person for a lounger and umbrella but sand wasn’t clean, and the setting isn’t very picturesque. There were changerooms but no toilets and no shade other than one tree and the umbrellas.
Where to Eat in Heybeliada
I haven’t been to Heybeliada as often as I’ve been to Buyukada and Kinaliada so I don’t have a lot of food recommendations. There’s a small square where Adalar Sokak runs down to St Nicholas Church with a number of small eating establishments dotted around it. We ate at a pide salonu on the corner of Zafer Sokak. The soup was good as was my grill, and the owner and his staff were very friendly.
Munis Sokak Lezzetleri down near the water appears to offer standard Turkish cuisine in an upmarket setting and Lady Café facing the water is a lovely spot to have an iced coffee or something else. The staff were particularly nice and the menu is well priced. Although most places we looked at had higher prices than over on the mainland, they weren’t absurdly expensive.
How to get to Heybeliada
There are various ferry lines that go to Heybeliada. Which one you catch will depend on where you’re staying. On the European side there are limited Şehir Hat (City Line) services from Besiktaş so most people opt to depart from the Kabataş wharf.
Several other ferry companies operate services from the European side as well. Dentur Avrasya ferries depart from Besiktaş (this picks up in Kabataş too) several times a day while Mavi Marmara ferries depart from Eminönü.
The Kabataş city line service also stops at Kadıköy. You can catch city ferry line services from Maltepe and Bostancı. However the services from Maltepe are quite limited as are those run by the city lines from Bostancı . Mavi Marmara also run ferries from Bostancı to the islands.
I love mooching around the city on my own, but if you’d prefer someone to show you the way, here are some Princes Island tours.
That’s it from me. I hope you have a lovely day out and enjoy your stay in Istanbul and Turkey. If you’re still in the planning stages, here are some other helpful hints.
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Before you even buy your plane ticket, check whether you need an EVISA. Here’s my post on everything to know before you take off, including how to buy one from the government website so you don’t pay extra.
Even if I never claim on it, I always take out TRAVEL INSURANCE. I recommend Visitors Coverage.
eSIM are the way to stay connected while you’re away. I recommend Truely, an eSIM provider working with local telcos. You can buy it before or after you arrive in Turkey, to use for 1 to as many days as you need. Truly eSIM are straightforward to install and activate but if you have any problems their responsive Whatsapp customer service is available 24/7.
Use my code: insideoutinistanbul and get 5% off when you order through the Truely website.
ACCOMMODATION: When I want to find a place to stay I use Booking.com.
For FLIGHTS I like to use Kiwi.com. Once you land the next decision you’ll have to make is how to get to your hotel. I’m a big advocate of public transport, but know it’s not suitable for everyone all the time. When I need to be picked up from or get to Istanbul Airport or Sabiha Gokcen Airport, I use one of these GetYourGuide AIRPORT TRANSFERS.
If you’re travelling alone, check out this post on useful solo travel tips Turkey for women (and men).
Now that’s all the practical stuff out of the way, here’s the fun stuff.
CITY TOURS & DAY TRIPS: Let me guide you around Kadikoy with my audio walking tour Stepping back through Chalcedon or venture further afield with Istanbul 50 Unsung Places, my bespoke guidebook. I know you’ll love visiting the lesser-known sites I’ve included. It’s based on using public transport as much as possible so you won’t be adding too much to your carbon footprint. Then read about what you’ve seen and experienced in my three essay collections and memoir about moving to Istanbul permanently.Browse the GetYourGuide website or Viator to find even more ways to experience Istanbul and Turkey with food tours, visits to the old city, evening Bosphorus cruises and more!
https://getyourguide.tp.st/9BhrGpvd
However you travel, stay safe and have fun! Iyi yolculuklar.
