Category Archives: Discover Istanbul – Asian Side

Kuzguncuk – a jewel in the Istanbul metropolis

Living in Istanbul which has a population of around 14 million people, it sometimes feels like everybody is out and about at the same time, making it impossible to get anywhere quickly. The streets throng with too many bodies cramming … Continue reading

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Kadikoy Walking Tour – Set your own pace!

Want to get more out of your next trip to Istanbul? Come and explore the Asian side of the city with the help of a long term resident. I’ve just released an audio tour called Stepping Back Through Chalcedon: Kadikoy … Continue reading

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Visit Kadikoy like a local: five top tips*

I’m a long time Kadikoy resident and I love it. The maze of backstreets with no names where it’s easy to get lost as you stop and stare, duck in and out of little shops to taste and touch and … Continue reading

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Dervish Traditions – Turkish Tombs II

Another of the Dervish tombs I love is in a suburb called Merdivenköy, also on the Asian side of Istanbul. Today this is a heavily built up residential area but the suffix köy, meaning village, points to its history. During … Continue reading

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Yeldegirmen Kadikoy – A Hidden Gem

On my way back from taking photos for my post on Turkish tombs I rediscovered the wonderful neighbourhood of Yeldegirmen Kadikoy. In the year since I last came here, the area has undergone a complete makeover. What were once sad … Continue reading

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Dervish traditions: Turkish Tombs I

One the quirky features I love about Istanbul are tombs dedicated to dede or senior dervishes that turn up in the most unusual places. A dervish is a member of a Muslim religious order who has taken vows of poverty … Continue reading

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Swimming in Istanbul: Sundays in Fenerbahçe Park

… To reach the water we have to walk past tables occupied by Turkish families. Most of them turn and stare at our mixed groups of foreigners and Turks, the men in our group clad only in swimming trunks and … Continue reading

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Haydarpasa Cemetery – A Long Way from Home

The complete version of this essay can be found in the second edition of my book        Inside Out In Istanbul: Making Sense of the City. Tucked away on the slopes up behind the port of Harem on the Asian side … Continue reading

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Kadikoy – Antique Street

For as long as I can remember, Tellalzade Sokak in Kadikoy on the Asian side of Istanbul, has never been referred to by its registered name. Streets in Turkey are called after a person who once lived there and gave … Continue reading

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Turkish seasonings – A Touch of Spice

In a little known film set in Istanbul spanning the last century, Turkish seasonings play an important role. In Turkey herbs and spices  represent the continuity of history as well as the diversity within cultures. After interviewing my baharatçı, my … Continue reading

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